Palembang: A flood of many things

The day of our arrival at Jakarta from Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia via Brunei, I was already feeling excited. We were now just an hour’s plane ride away from Palembang, the once capital of the great Sri Vijaya Empire. This is more exciting than having it read in the books. I’ve read a bit about Palembang from history books. My dream of visiting the place would soon become a reality.
 
Home to almost 2 million people, Palembang is Southeast Asia’s second oldest city. As the capital of the Sri Vijaya Empire, it once held vast power and influence over most parts of Southeast Asia, including current Malaysia, Solot (Sulu archipelago) and Brunei.
 
To me, this trip is my chance to journey back to the past.

I was travelling with Pak Widodo, Pak Andhika and Pak Toso from the Indonesian Consulate General in Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia. My friends from the media as well as the travel agents and travel operators group were with us as well. We were there for Familiarization Trip 2016, a trip organized by the Ministry of Tourism Indonesia and Consulate General of Indonesia in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia. I can’t thank them enough for this trip. In Jakarta, we were warmly welcomed by our trip organizers Ibu Serena Pane, Pak Wisnu and Pak Eka.

Going to Palembang, we took a flight via Garuda Indonesia in the morning of 13 May 2016.  While flying over the place I looked through my plane window, trying to make something of the vast, green scenery below. This was my first time flying to Palembang. As one of the most mentioned historical places in Nusantara, I couldn’t wait to see how beautiful it is.
 
I was overwhelmed listening to our eloquent tour guide, Bapak Latiff from Indonesia Tour Guide Association. While listening to him about history, culture, culinary, tourist destinations and other ancient beautiful places in Palembang, I was observing a large construction site along the road. I was informed later that it was a construction site for a new LRT rail. The project is part of the Indonesian government preparation for Asian Games 2018, which Palembang is hosting along with Jakarta.

In the bus, Pak Latiff talked about the nearby Musi River on the east coast of South Sumatra. One of the major landmarks there is the Ampera Bridge, which connects the two regions of Palembang--the Seberang Hulu from the south and the Seberang Hilir from the north.
 
The Ampera Bridge was built during the time of Soekarno, Indonesia’s first president. It used to be named Bung Karno Bridge after him but was later renamed Ampera Bridge, short for Amanat Penderitaan Rakyat, which means the mandate of the people's suffering. The construction was part of a Japanese war reparations program. Designed as a vertical-lift bridge, it had a mechanism that could allow it to open to let ships pass below it. For a few years after it was opened, the center span could be lifted to allow ships to pass underneath. However starting 1970, the government stopped allowing ships to pass through.

The day after arriving in Palembang, we went cruising the Musi River. I couldn’t stop clicking my camera to take pictures of villages beside the riverbank.  All those uniform looking houses with red or brown roof bricks seemed to make a fine contrast against the greenery around them. Children were playing happily, jumping and swimming by the riverside. Ladies were washing clothes while some men were fishing. Docked quietly at another side of the river are several colorful, uniquely designed wooden boats. It seemed to me that life here is easy and enjoyable.

Near Kampung Kapitan just along the river is a village called Arab Al-Munawar, which is home to many Arab descendants from Yemen. I felt at home there. The community welcomed us with the soothing music, flute and dance. At the house of the village leader, we were served Yemeni traditional foods such as Nasi Kebuli (a spicy rice dish) and other viands blended with local taste. The leader, Habib Ahmad Al-Kaff, is 65 years old.

He told me that the village got its name after Abdurrahman Al-Munawar, a Yemeni who married a local Malay lady and lived there with his family since 1700’s. Sitting near the verandah, the wind blowing through my face, I continued asking Habib about the village’s houses and how old they are.

Habib smiled, seemingly nostalgic while talking to me. According to him, there are about eight houses in the village that are estimated to be more than a century old, but the village itself is about three hundred years old. The houses are made of rocks, cement, and a special kind of wood material known as Merbau or Unglen, which is water resistant. Most of the houses are pyramid-like in structure with a touch of Middle Eastern and European motif. Carvings and ornaments are combined of Malay and Chinese in style.

At Pulau Kemaru, I sipped coconut juice with Pak Ruben, Subdivision Head of Familiarization Trip for Southeast Asia and Pak Widodo (from the Indonesian Consulate General, Kota Kinabalu) together with Ruzaini (from Metro, Kota Kinabalu), Maya (from Utusan Borneo), and Mbak Mia (from Ministry of Tourism Indonesia).

Prior to this, I was interviewed by a reporter from Metro TV News, a local TV station. I was asked about my opinion about the place. I told her that the place is calm and suited for someone who wants to write song lyrics. It is also a good spot to write poems and short stories.

Before the interview I was roaming around the island looking at a giant Pagoda and a Beringin tree known as Pohon Cinta where people flock to for its coldness and serenity.  Pulau Kemaru is also known for the love story of Prince Tan Bun An, a Chinese prince, and Siti Fatimah, a Malay Princess. As I have written some poems here, I am looking forward to writing more poems and stories about the place, culture, people, foods and history.
 
After two days in Palembang, it was already time to go. I was with the group expecting Ibu Irene Camelyn Sinaga, Head of Culture and Tourism of South Sumatra to arrive the morning of May 15. When we talked at Arista Hotel, one of the best hotels in Palembang, I felt that she confirmed my thoughts about poems when she said, “We have poets and poems here and legends as well as culture and history. When you hear of Palembang, it is synonymous to Sri Vijaya”.

Palembang is not only a place flooded by river water, as its name comes from “pa”, which means “place” and “lembang” which means “flooded by water”. It is also a place flooded with local exotic foods, ancient megalithic stone carvings, and legends. Almost everything that I need there is easy to be found. Exotic foods are easy to find in the city. It is found in every corner of the roads and buildings, like all different kinds of Pindang Ikan or boiled fish. The megalithic stone carving are found in the State Museum Balaputra Dewa where the Rumah Limas, the house imprinted in the Ten-Thousand Indonesian Rupiah Bill, can also be found.
 
As I was thanking the team from the Indonesian Ministry of Tourism, Indonesian Consulate General, Kota Kinabalu and Indonesian local travel partners, I want to quote Pak Ruben’s reply: “Thanks are due to the time that we have spent together, the time we were able to know each other and enjoy the beauty and wonders of Indonesia. We are especially grateful for the chance of establishing brotherhood and friendship among us all. We hope to see you again.”

I also want to thank Pak Andhika. I still can remember sitting with him inside the bus.  Before the trip to Palembang ended, he humbly said, “I am grateful to have our guests from Kota Kinabalu and these are one of the best places that we can offer in Indonesia.” This is what Wonderful Indonesia is all about.
 
I hope to come back again there. If you haven’t been there yet, I recommend that you go. There are direct flights from Kota Kinabalu to Jakarta. From Jakarta, you can take a one-hour flight to Palembang. There are also many tour packages that arrange your trip to Palembang, South Sumatra, Indonesia. Inquiries could be made through the Ministry of Tourism Indonesia and through local travel agents. Before anchoring our sail, let us read one of my poems I wrote at Arista Hotel, on 15 May 2016 at 7:48AM.

HATI DAN JIWA WARGA
 
Tidak sah datang ke Palembang
jika tidak menatap Ampera
jembatan dibina ada cerita
dari hati dan jiwa warga.
 
Amanat Penderitaan Rakyat
namanya diambil dikenang ummat
sejarah tidak harus dilepas
kerana itu hidup terbebas.
 
Bung Karno namanya dulu
dari Jepang mula dibantu
seksaan Perang Dunia Kedua
penderitaan warga diberi makna.
 
Jembatan ini tanda kesatuan
tiada siapa bisa menentang
terbina benar luahan hati
datang kemari mendapat erti.
 
Kami di sini menyusur sungai
tempat laluan di Sungai Musi
kapal berhias indah berlabuh
penduduk maju bersatu padu.

I love you, peace. Let’s sail together. Layag Sug!

Local Travel Agents:                                                  
 
Connie Chong, General Manager                                 
Fun Holiday Tours and Travel SDN. BHD                    
Lot 8, 3rd Floor, Block H, Sadong Jaya Complex,   
88200 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, East Malaysia            
Tel: +6088250092                                                                       
Fax: +6088250093 / 729301                                                    
Email: conniechongphuiyun@hotmail.com
Website: www.sabahfun.com
 
GH Mulia Travel
Jalan Veteran No. 173 A, Palembang
Tel: (62-711) 351587, 353377
Fax: (62-711) 3513382
Website: www.gamahitaindonesia.com
 
Tourism Office:
 
Jalan Demang Lebar Daun Kav. IX,
Palembang, Sumatra Selatan, Indonesia
Tel: (62-711) 356661, 311345, 357348
Fax: (62-711) 311544
Email: info@diparss.go.id
Website: www.sumsel.go.id