The day of our arrival at Jakarta from Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia via Brunei, I was already feeling excited. We were now just an hour’s plane ride away from Palembang, the once capital of the great Sri Vijaya Empire. This is more exciting than having it read in the books. I’ve read a bit about Palembang from history books. My dream of visiting the place would soon become a reality.
 
Home to almost 2 million people, Palembang is Southeast Asia’s second oldest city. As the capital of the Sri Vijaya Empire, it once held vast power and influence over most parts of Southeast Asia, including current Malaysia, Solot (Sulu archipelago) and Brunei.
 
To me, this trip is my chance to journey back to the past.

I was travelling with Pak Widodo, Pak Andhika and Pak Toso from the Indonesian Consulate General in Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia. My friends from the media as well as the travel agents and travel operators group were with us as well. We were there for Familiarization Trip 2016, a trip organized by the Ministry of Tourism Indonesia and Consulate General of Indonesia in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia. I can’t thank them enough for this trip. In Jakarta, we were warmly welcomed by our trip organizers Ibu Serena Pane, Pak Wisnu and Pak Eka.

Going to Palembang, we took a flight via Garuda Indonesia in the morning of 13 May 2016.  While flying over the place I looked through my plane window, trying to make something of the vast, green scenery below. This was my first time flying to Palembang. As one of the most mentioned historical places in Nusantara, I couldn’t wait to see how beautiful it is.
 
I was overwhelmed listening to our eloquent tour guide, Bapak Latiff from Indonesia Tour Guide Association. While listening to him about history, culture, culinary, tourist destinations and other ancient beautiful places in Palembang, I was observing a large construction site along the road. I was informed later that it was a construction site for a new LRT rail. The project is part of the Indonesian government preparation for Asian Games 2018, which Palembang is hosting along with Jakarta.

In the bus, Pak Latiff talked about the nearby Musi River on the east coast of South Sumatra. One of the major landmarks there is the Ampera Bridge, which connects the two regions of Palembang--the Seberang Hulu from the south and the Seberang Hilir from the north.
 
The Ampera Bridge was built during the time of Soekarno, Indonesia’s first president. It used to be named Bung Karno Bridge after him but was later renamed Ampera Bridge, short for Amanat Penderitaan Rakyat, which means the mandate of the people's suffering. The construction was part of a Japanese war reparations program. Designed as a vertical-lift bridge, it had a mechanism that could allow it to open to let ships pass below it. For a few years after it was opened, the center span could be lifted to allow ships to pass underneath. However starting 1970, the government stopped allowing ships to pass through.

The day after arriving in Palembang, we went cruising the Musi River. I couldn’t stop clicking my camera to take pictures of villages beside the riverbank.  All those uniform looking houses with red or brown roof bricks seemed to make a fine contrast against the greenery around them. Children were playing happily, jumping and swimming by the riverside. Ladies were washing clothes while some men were fishing. Docked quietly at another side of the river are several colorful, uniquely designed wooden boats. It seemed to me that life here is easy and enjoyable.

Near Kampung Kapitan just along the river is a village called Arab Al-Munawar, which is home to many Arab descendants from Yemen. I felt at home there. The community welcomed us with the soothing music, flute and dance. At the house of the village leader, we were served Yemeni traditional foods such as Nasi Kebuli (a spicy rice dish) and other viands blended with local taste. The leader, Habib Ahmad Al-Kaff, is 65 years old.

He told me that the village got its name after Abdurrahman Al-Munawar, a Yemeni who married a local Malay lady and lived there with his family since 1700’s. Sitting near the verandah, the wind blowing through my face, I continued asking Habib about the village’s houses and how old they are.

Habib smiled, seemingly nostalgic while talking to me. According to him, there are about eight houses in the village that are estimated to be more than a century old, but the village itself is about three hundred years old. The houses are made of rocks, cement, and a special kind of wood material known as Merbau or Unglen, which is water resistant. Most of the houses are pyramid-like in structure with a touch of Middle Eastern and European motif. Carvings and ornaments are combined of Malay and Chinese in style.

At Pulau Kemaru, I sipped coconut juice with Pak Ruben, Subdivision Head of Familiarization Trip for Southeast Asia and Pak Widodo (from the Indonesian Consulate General, Kota Kinabalu) together with Ruzaini (from Metro, Kota Kinabalu), Maya (from Utusan Borneo), and Mbak Mia (from Ministry of Tourism Indonesia).

Prior to this, I was interviewed by a reporter from Metro TV News, a local TV station. I was asked about my opinion about the place. I told her that the place is calm and suited for someone who wants to write song lyrics. It is also a good spot to write poems and short stories.

Before the interview I was roaming around the island looking at a giant Pagoda and a Beringin tree known as Pohon Cinta where people flock to for its coldness and serenity.  Pulau Kemaru is also known for the love story of Prince Tan Bun An, a Chinese prince, and Siti Fatimah, a Malay Princess. As I have written some poems here, I am looking forward to writing more poems and stories about the place, culture, people, foods and history.
 
After two days in Palembang, it was already time to go. I was with the group expecting Ibu Irene Camelyn Sinaga, Head of Culture and Tourism of South Sumatra to arrive the morning of May 15. When we talked at Arista Hotel, one of the best hotels in Palembang, I felt that she confirmed my thoughts about poems when she said, “We have poets and poems here and legends as well as culture and history. When you hear of Palembang, it is synonymous to Sri Vijaya”.

Palembang is not only a place flooded by river water, as its name comes from “pa”, which means “place” and “lembang” which means “flooded by water”. It is also a place flooded with local exotic foods, ancient megalithic stone carvings, and legends. Almost everything that I need there is easy to be found. Exotic foods are easy to find in the city. It is found in every corner of the roads and buildings, like all different kinds of Pindang Ikan or boiled fish. The megalithic stone carving are found in the State Museum Balaputra Dewa where the Rumah Limas, the house imprinted in the Ten-Thousand Indonesian Rupiah Bill, can also be found.
 
As I was thanking the team from the Indonesian Ministry of Tourism, Indonesian Consulate General, Kota Kinabalu and Indonesian local travel partners, I want to quote Pak Ruben’s reply: “Thanks are due to the time that we have spent together, the time we were able to know each other and enjoy the beauty and wonders of Indonesia. We are especially grateful for the chance of establishing brotherhood and friendship among us all. We hope to see you again.”

I also want to thank Pak Andhika. I still can remember sitting with him inside the bus.  Before the trip to Palembang ended, he humbly said, “I am grateful to have our guests from Kota Kinabalu and these are one of the best places that we can offer in Indonesia.” This is what Wonderful Indonesia is all about.
 
I hope to come back again there. If you haven’t been there yet, I recommend that you go. There are direct flights from Kota Kinabalu to Jakarta. From Jakarta, you can take a one-hour flight to Palembang. There are also many tour packages that arrange your trip to Palembang, South Sumatra, Indonesia. Inquiries could be made through the Ministry of Tourism Indonesia and through local travel agents. Before anchoring our sail, let us read one of my poems I wrote at Arista Hotel, on 15 May 2016 at 7:48AM.

HATI DAN JIWA WARGA
 
Tidak sah datang ke Palembang
jika tidak menatap Ampera
jembatan dibina ada cerita
dari hati dan jiwa warga.
 
Amanat Penderitaan Rakyat
namanya diambil dikenang ummat
sejarah tidak harus dilepas
kerana itu hidup terbebas.
 
Bung Karno namanya dulu
dari Jepang mula dibantu
seksaan Perang Dunia Kedua
penderitaan warga diberi makna.
 
Jembatan ini tanda kesatuan
tiada siapa bisa menentang
terbina benar luahan hati
datang kemari mendapat erti.
 
Kami di sini menyusur sungai
tempat laluan di Sungai Musi
kapal berhias indah berlabuh
penduduk maju bersatu padu.

I love you, peace. Let’s sail together. Layag Sug!

Local Travel Agents:                                                  
 
Connie Chong, General Manager                                 
Fun Holiday Tours and Travel SDN. BHD                    
Lot 8, 3rd Floor, Block H, Sadong Jaya Complex,   
88200 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, East Malaysia            
Tel: +6088250092                                                                       
Fax: +6088250093 / 729301                                                    
Email: conniechongphuiyun@hotmail.com
Website: www.sabahfun.com
 
GH Mulia Travel
Jalan Veteran No. 173 A, Palembang
Tel: (62-711) 351587, 353377
Fax: (62-711) 3513382
Website: www.gamahitaindonesia.com
 
Tourism Office:
 
Jalan Demang Lebar Daun Kav. IX,
Palembang, Sumatra Selatan, Indonesia
Tel: (62-711) 356661, 311345, 357348
Fax: (62-711) 311544
Email: info@diparss.go.id
Website: www.sumsel.go.id

One afternoon on 25 April 2016, I was with my old friend Prof. Nur Danial, sitting by the beach overlooking the Zamboanga side of the Sulu Sea. It was not too cold that day. I enjoyed the sea breeze touching my face and arms while conversing with Prof. Nur about creative writing for Tausug audiences. We talked about the idea to hold a poetry-reading session on a Tausug poem called Tarasul, which means a correspondence, a handwritten piece, a speech or spoken piece containing metaphorical words and expressions that are elusive.

Without hesitation, we decided to hold it at Dennis Coffee Garden in Block 2, Lot 8, San Jose Road, Baliwasan, Zamboanga City, because we thought poetry is best experienced with cups of deliciously brewed native coffee. My friend Marj Imran was to join us in this poetry session. Marj Imran is my high school classmate and our valedictorian. She and I already discussed the idea a few days before when I handed over to her my book ‘Sulug in Sabah’ with a message in Bahasa Sug - ‘mataud kahanungan ha gulangan’, which means ‘more peace in the wilderness’ in English. Her brother, my friend Atty. Adzlan Imran was also there and shared his insights during the discussion.

Girillia Tarasul or Poetry Guerrilla was to be the title of our poetry-reading activity that night.  The invitation I posted on my Facebook wall featured Prof Nur himself as the Tausug poet who has written many poems and short stories in Bahasa Sug using his pen name Lahir Batin. During the activity, friends from different backgrounds came to join us, including the author of ‘A Taste of Culture’, Tuan Hadji Alfrazer Ahalul.

Prior to this activity, I had been visiting Dennis Coffee Garden to share thoughts with many friends. Some of them were old friends, some I just met in person after befriending them on Facebook while campaigning for ‘Right to Hijab’ a few years back. 

Dennis Coffee Garden has been in my heart since it started its operation in Zamboanga City in 2015. Its branch in Jolo, Sulu has been known to me since 1994. It is perhaps the only coffee shop in town (or perhaps in the whole of the Philippines) that allows customers to order a half-cup of coffee. There, people enjoy their coffee alongside delicious Sulu pastries called Bangbang Sug.
 
During my recent stay in Zamboanga, I’d visit Dennis Coffee Garden almost every night.  I consider the place as my own Coffee University of Thoughts. It has become so familiar to me now that even if I close my eyes I could see every tiny details of its furniture and decors, even the light green and violet colors of its facade on a black-and-white photo, which I took through my smart phone.

Dennis to Greeks means ‘god of wine’, while to the Turks it means ‘sea’ (they spell it  ‘Deniz’). These meanings coincide with the idea of crossing the legendary Sulu Sea and becoming the den of coffee and thoughts in Zamboanga City. Since expanding in Zamboanga, Dennis has slowly become not just a coffee haven in this southern side of the archipelago but also a place where Tausugs can proudly embrace their identity and where non-Tausugs can experience the warmth of Tausug culture.
 
With its furniture and interiors carefully crafted by skilled Tausug artisans, Dennis captures the pride of Sulu. Visiting the place, one could catch a glimpse of the history, culture, tradition, customs, arts, music and social world of the people of the Sulu archipelago.
 
I can easily relate to the thought of Raz Itum, a Tausug musician-lyricist who posted this line in his Facebook wall on 22 April 2016: “Time will come when everyone in my tribe will declare themselves as Tausug instead of being Filipino. The gap is fast widening.”
 
He pointed out that “The Filipino identity might soon become a point of question followed by crisis and ultimately, amnesia. Filipinos are more divided now in almost all aspects and axes of society - values, income, perspective and life goals. The resulting difference is slowly compounding towards indifference which slowly kills patriotism and soon, humanity.
 
He ended his post with the short statement of prayer, “Thank God, I still am and ever will be, Tausug.”
​
The thoughts shared by Tuan Hadji Alfrazer Ahalul while chewing his mama’  (betel-nut) reminded me of something from the past--that the Sulu archipelago once had its own self-government and statehood.  Hadji Al, as he is known to me and other friends, is the in-charge of Dennis. He shared to me how Dennis started as a coffee ambassador in the past. The venture was started by an eight-year-old girl, Ubbaisa from Patikul, who was born in 1920s. Ubbaisa spent her childhood near the village with lumbaan or pasuhan kura’, a horse racing field. As a young girl, she started picking coffee berries in their backyards.
 
As the first child, she was taught the knowledge of coffee by her mother. She came to learn how to prepare coffee after boiling, grinding and filtering them with a piece of cloth, and then serving them to both local and Japanese horse racers and coffee enthusiasts before the Second World War. Back then, she didn’t see the need to commercialize their coffee, as it had been part of their culture to drink coffee every day. It took time and a lot of effort to establish Dennis and get it to where it is now.
 
Today, Dennis Coffee Garden is not just Zamboanga’s best place to enjoy coffee but also the city’s best place to experience authentic Sulu culture and tradition. With a staff of young people from different religious background wearing light green and violet uniforms to represent diversity, Dennis continually makes me proud as a Tausug.  
 
And one thing that makes me smile is the fact that behind this amazing kahawa sug venture is a woman. True as what everyone here believes: ‘misan biyadiin kusug sin usug, aun pikilan sin babai’. No matter how powerful a man is, there’s always a woman’s thought behind him.  
 
To Grandmother Ubbaisa who started it all, to my mother, and to all mothers out there on this special day, may you continue to be strong for your families and those you love. And may you continue to succeed in whatever venture you’re doing right now. Happy Mothers’ Day!
 
I love you, peace! Let’s sail together. Layag Sug!

Here's the video of the Tausug song "Tibuuka Na", which we've all been waiting for years.

​Please help spread the word by sharing the video to your friends and relatives. :) 
​
​"Tibuuka Na" is part of  “Langan Atay”, an album made up of Suluk/Tausug songs.

The album represents music from Sabah ethnic and Philippine South tribes. It contains 9 songs sung by Nikki Bacolod (Philippines), Diya and Eima (Philippines), Min Yasmin and Julfekar (Malaysia).

Produced by Julfekar (Julfekar Music Malaysia), the album will be distributed this year in both Malaysia and Philippines. The songs are composed by Julfekar with lyrics by Nelson Dino and Julfekar. Among the songs in the album are the following:

1. Tibuuka Na Nikki.B feat. Min Yasmin
2. Isuk Atay Nikki Bacolod.
3. Masi Malasa Diya.
4. Janji Diya feat. Julfekar.
5. Waktu Limabay Nur-Eima.
6. Nur Sahayaku Nur-Eima feat. Min Yasmin
7. Lunaas Kabuhi Min Yasmin
8. Ampuna Na Julfekar.
9. Sukud Manusia Julfekar.

For more info, contact:

Julfekar Music.
Email : julfekar@yahoo.com.
Contact : +60163443449                                                                   

TIBUUKA NA
Min Yasmin & Nikki Bacolod
Composed by: Julfekar
Lyrics by: Nelson Dino
Label : Julfekar Music / MillenniumArt. 

Kasilasa ku kayimu di’ mabiy
kublit jantung ku lasa ayari

Panumtum atay tara in maghati
labi tumtum ku kayimu makasi

Atay ku himuun yari ra kaw di
halaum pikilan ku ra in lingkat mu

Tuhan tabanga na aku
tibuuka na in lasa in

Tuhan dunguga ba aku
in lasa ku ini kaniya
Kaniya ra.

Halaum sin manis mu
in lasa ku ini kayimu ra...

Above is the cover of my e-book, Sulug in Sabah, released through e-sentral.com. In case you want to secure a copy, please click this link. You may also message the author in case you want a hard copy. Thank you for the support. 

​The Suluks have always been somewhat misunderstood as a people. To the outside world whose insights are based mostly on information gathered from occasional coverage in newspapers and other media, they are a barbaric race, prone to committing acts of brutality and senseless aggression.

In Sabah, even though they are legally natives, the Suluks are still seen today as sort of enemies of the society, stereotyped as potential troublemakers. For these reasons, they are regarded as “outsiders” by many Sabahans and Malaysians.

In this book we get to closely examine the truth about the Suluks and how they really are in real day-to-day life. Through the eyes of ordinary Suluks, we get a glimpse of the everyday struggles of a people. We uncover their dreams and aspirations.

We also get to look closely at the roles the Suluks played politically, historically, and economically in the development of Sabah. We also get to understand what roles they play in shaping the future of Sabahan society.

By examining the Suluks more objectively, we can develop a platform for harmonious co-existence among Malaysians, and ensure the active participation of the Suluks in the local communities. I believe this book is rather timely and particularly relevant.

At the moment, Sabah is beset with issues concerning undocumented immigrants, many of them Suluks and of Suluk origin. Through this book we get to see another side of this often neglected and misunderstood ethnic group, looking at them as artisans, politicians, poets, musicians and business people.
We get to familiarise ourselves with their food, religious belief, culture, and traditions. We get to see the kind of social activities that bind them together. The aim is for the readers to acquire a better understanding of the Suluks in order to strengthen the foundations of a multi-ethnic country that Malaysia is.

There are Suluk personalities whose immense contributions in history have yet to be given due recognition. This book sheds some light into their achievements, not with the intent of glorifying them as individuals, but rather to emphasize what Suluks are capable of and their future potential social contribution to Sabah and to Malaysia. 

The Suluks’ sense of connection with their past has always been strong. Although spread out geographically around neighbouring islands such as the Philippines, Malaysia and Indonesia, they are connected by the sea.

The Suluks in Sabah have ties to their brethren in the Sulu archipelago, an area now politically administered by the Republic of the Philippines. Despite having different citizenships, they are inevitably one ethnic group.

An Islamic liberation war in the 1970s had a lot of impact on the lives of Suluks in the Philippines. The suffering thereafter led to their influx to Sabah to seek better lives, away from all vestiges of war. Many of these Suluks are now in Malaysia as undocumented immigrants.

There had never been any formal education offered to them in the past. Recently however, the Malaysian government initiated programs that would allow them to seek alternative education and thus a better life prospect for the future.

I sincerely hope this book will encourage more Malaysians to be more objective and understanding. After all, we are one in this vast archipelago; one regardless of beliefs, citizenship, and nationality. Our future is shared, determined by the contributions of every individual in this country — Suluks included.

Finally, I hope this book will serve as a compass, a guide for the future. By examining the history, the culture, way of life and the connections of Suluks in Sabah to the Suluks of the Sulu archipelago, we can surely pave the way for a brighter future that is freer, more progressive and unhampered by political issues that seem to threaten us continually in the present.

It was fun listening to Pak Gatot, our tour guide, telling us about the Kota or City of Malang in Indonesia. According to him, Malang is East Java’s second largest city. It has a history dating back to the Singhasari, a Javanese Hindu-Buddhist kingdom that flourished between 1222 and 1292. I smiled to myself, feeling like a student being lectured by his history professor. Informative and accommodating, Pak Gatot has got to be one of the best guides I’ve ever had in this media trip.

​Malang is known for its rather cold climate, hence its nickname “Paris of East Java,”.  Thirty minutes from the city lies a small mountainous town called Batu, which has impressive natural green scenery.  It is situated 700 - 1100 meters above sea level, which makes it the best place for beautiful orchids, rare flowers, and sweet-tasting organic apples. 

“Batu’s government has built a thriving agro-tourism industry over the years,” explained Pak Gatot as we were heading to the Kusuma Agrowisata, a hotel that doubles as a resort, park, and convention center. “In fact, Batu is also home to rare fauna including endemic species of birds, spiders, monkeys, and others.”

We reached Kusumu Agrowisata in no time. I glanced around the luxurious place, feeling awed at the beauty of its exterior and interior.  The place has everything you’d want for a relaxing vacation—cottages, restaurants, cafes, tennis court, a picnic area, and etc. All amid lush, green scenery that seems to be the central theme everywhere in Batu. 

We were lucky to have been able to spend the night there. I read that Kusumu Agrowisata is one of the pioneers of Indonesia’s Agro Tourism industry, having been established as early as the 1990s.

As I wandered around the hotel, I couldn’t help but marvel at the wonderful design work put into action. A blend of nature and modernity, you’d get the comfort of being in an urban hotel plus the peace and serenity of being in the mountains.

After settling in our rooms, we went around touring the orchard area, picking apples, oranges, guavas, dragon fruits, strawberries and other hydroponic vegetables or vegetables that are organic and free from pesticides.

After seeing the fauna in Agrowisata, we were brought to the Wildlife Museum or Museum Satwa. Standing like the Greek Parthenon in front of the Mount Panderman, the Wildlife Museum  is a recreational and educational museum that has now become one of the new icons of tourism in East Java. 

The Wildlife Museum is part of Jawa Timur Park 2, a large park area that consists of children rides, a zoo, a safari farm, and others. It holds thousands of preserved endangered animals and ancient fossils imported from various countries across the world including the Americas, Africa, Asia, Australia, Europe, the Arctic and Antarctic.

The museum even displays replicas of ancient animals such as the Apatosaurus, Tyrannosaurus-Rex, Stegosaurus, Mammoth, and others. We were assured that the museum strictly follows the objectives of the Ex-Situ Wildlife Conservation, which is never to acquire dead animals by hunting. 

​Throughout the tour, I was curious about the animals and how they successfully started the museum. How much of an effort it would have taken to gather all the specimens from different locations and bring them to the highlands. 

I guess I still have more to explore.  I would really love to visit again someday. I really have to, otherwise, I’d miss the opportunity to know more about the animals. The Wildlife Museum was one of the best museums I have visited so far in one the most populated countries, Indonesia. 

Nelson Dino
16 August 2015
​Sunday
 
It was in high school when folklores and folktales piqued my interest. I was young and had no knowledge whatsoever about how important they were in the everyday lives of my people.  There in the jungle of Sulu, the cradle of the Sulu Sultanate which reigned in our majestic past, I had the chance of listening to the chants of the manglulugu’ or chanter. I was not interested  with the somewhat indistinguishable words but the melancholic melody.

I’d feel at peace listening to the melodious voices of traditional singers as every beat would hit my heart. Later I learned that the singing is called lugu’. I became interested to know more about it so I talked to my grandfather, then to the elders I came across with. I continued bugging my uncles, aunts and even the friendly neighbourhood chap.

I knew about folklore or folk tale in my English literature class, but I never knew what they were called in Bahasa Sug or Tausug language. Since then I have wanted to look for more. Lugu’ enthralled me to a point that I began looking for other classical forms of art, something similar to Lugu but easier to understand and much more lively. I spent my vacation in the jungle of Pasil one summer. There an old man told me about Kissa, a traditional narrative. Much to my surprise, Kissa is an equivalent of folkloric narrative.

My consultation with elders on the culture and tradition of the people of Sulu archipelago led me to believe that we didn’t develop a culture of writing down these narratives. What we had was just basically oral tradition. The narratives were passed down to reciters or chanters from one generation to another.

While I was not an inheritor of the skills of chanting nor did one single member of my family engage in this art, my mom is good in singing lullabies or langan and my dad is good in reciting poems or tarasul.
Well, perhaps I had inherited a bit of both and I realized that I could learn to write. I wanted to write, and the least I could do was to record those chants. It never materialized. I lacked resources. I didn’t even own a tape recorder then.
​
Today young Sulus lack the interest in continuing these oral traditions and a way to preserve some of these performances is to document them. Folklore or Kissa is the Sulus’ eternal culture thriving in their consciousness as well as sub consciousness, either directly or not. They are expressions of ideas and values. The stories may be constantly changing because of the way they are retold or passed from ear to ear.
​
Although the stories keep past events alive as they describe the lives of the people then, keeping the old names of certain places and events that happen in the mundane or historical ones are a step towards preserving them. But most importantly, we need to write.

I was one of the guests who came for the recent media environmental write-shop in Sabah. We were billeted at one of the best lodges near Kampung Bilit along Kinabatangan River, known as the largest and longest river in the State of Sabah, Malaysia. Numerous local lodges and resorts operate around the area, making Kampung Bilit a favorite destination among foreign and local guests.
 
During the write-shop, different topics related to writing about the environment were discussed. We were taught how to write briefly but with points and facts. We were reminded never to base our write-ups on hearsay. "Reporting should be fair and based," the guide said. 

We were also taught that when writing a report on environmental pollution, we should be careful, and that our reports should always be legal and e​thical.

​One of the highlights of the entire event was our cruising the Kinabatangan River, Malaysia's second longest river. I enjoyed the lush, colorful flora growing in the banks. Above us, birds were flying carelessly, as if happy that we were around. Even the monkeys shared the same joy, swinging endlessly from one tree to another.

​Before stepping into the boat, I listened to our guide doing the safety briefing, an SOP for every business operator in this area. As with the other guests, I wore an orange life jacket.
 
Apart from the hornbills flying above us and the rather noisy Proboscis Monkeys playing in the distance, I saw plenty of white bubbles exploding at the surface of the river. They looked like a strange match to the colorful hyacinths that also appeared on the surface of the river. They smelled a little stinky. Like dead fish. I wondered what's causing them.

​After I pointed out the presence of bubbles, Ms. Daria Mathew, a Freshwater Senior Manager of WWF - Malaysia who was on the other boat, confirmed that they, along with the presence of the hyacinths, were indicators of pollution and contamination. 

Ms. Mathew also said that the pollutants and contaminants may have come from the oil palm companies nearby. That is why WWF was doing an awareness program related to environment and river conservation, Ms. Mathew further said. And one of their strategies is getting the community involved in helping monitor and document what is going on in the area. They partnered with different tour agencies as well, so guests taking river cruises would be more comfortable.

 
​As we continued the cruise and listened to our guide, I got hit by a realization. As it is everyone’s responsibility to protect the environment and the river, I should also be responsible. It is also my responsibility to protect and teach youngsters how to keep the environment clean, especially the rivers, the main water-source of people in this area.
 
I left Kampung Bilit carrying a huge lump on my throat. As someone who is engaged in writing, I have the ability to inform many about what's going on. 

​I bade goodbye to the teen croc lying in the river bank that enjoyed looking at us as our boat passed by, leaving a trace of river bubbles around it. And while waiting for the van to pick us up near the wooden waiting shed and while thanking the staffs of the WWF-Malaysia for conducting the write-shop, I managed to write a short poem:

Note:
In a recent report, an oil palm company was fined RM50, 000 by the Session Court for discharge of effluent exceeding standardized quality limit. The company was charged under Section 16 (1) of the Environmental Quality Act 1974. They are punishable under Section 16 (2) of the same Act for discharging Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD) and discharging effluent containing suspended solids from the final discharge point, which exceeded the quality standard limit. 

"Don't go too far or too near" echoes the theme of Mas Mabigat ang Liwanag Sa Kalungkutan or Light Falls Heavier than Sorrow. I didn't have to go too far yet too near. If one watches the play and doesn't cry, he must have no heart. This is the play that provides a narrative on Mindanao-centric and Manila-centric discourse.

One of the nice things about the play was that the the actors didn't seem to be acting. They must have deeply understood the story, which was delivered in a mix of Maguindanaoan and Tagalog, as well as few English. Indeed the UP Repertory Company actors did deliver the message smoothly they showed the colonialists’ policy of coercion in facing resistance from Muslims.

The play demonstrates that Muslims have the potential to accept modernity with their capability to change. They can accommodate as long as their self identification is not altered or integrated into the colonial identity. Their ancestors fought for it, even if they were not totally aware.

It also portrays the post-colonial state, like Philippines tend to press out Muslims are still in the primitive past. Ignoring their cultural belongingness to their past as a relic of their current cause to their self identification. The playwright narrated resistance and embraced attempts of neo-colonial state at a social and an ethnological construction to produce a negotiated and provide a discourse to the understanding collective colonial identity.

The play also narrates continues colonial project in Mindanao and Sulu archipelago. It is a story of distinctive nations, cultures, traditions and local history even it is still under the same neo-colonial state. Rogelio Braga’s discourse among two groups of nations are both used a colonially imposed names, who exist as civilized people before colonialism comes to their shores.

​​The discourse of colonial name superseded the cause for a desired identity based from the geographical territory among Mindanaoans and Sulus as a whole. A transcending narrative from a historical account of desired identity to a political imposed identifications. I am looking at the angle, if the play might have narrated a discourse between and among Muslims themselves in Mindanao and Sulu when imagined identity is being used to call them collectively. ​

I only observed how the story was told. How the story was delivered. The play had it's tearful moments. That I must say that. I would've love to see the identity of the Maguindanao and Sulu be tackled separately.