Blog Posts

SELAMAT HARI MALAYSIA!

10/22/2016

15 September 2018, FB Post.
Neldy Jolo

With regards to this video, I want to bring some points to people's attention. It needs to be looked into it deeply, to correct and to put it to proper perspectives. I am not to let you accept. But here are some facts that people need to know and understand:

1. The Muslims of Sabah did not exist only by 1963. Before the Federation of Malaysia established in 16 September 1963, Sabah has its Muslims inhabitants. There was no such called ‘illegal immigrants’ as issuing identification card was not yet implemented.

2. The British established Company in North Borneo with the agreements signed between Brunei (1877) and Sulu (1761, 1765 and 1878) sultanates. And by these periods the indigenous Muslims have been living side by side with the indigenous non-Muslims.

3. Christianity was established in North Borneo in 1882 after the establishment of British North Borneo. According to a manuscript of Idahan found in Lahad Datu Islam landed on Sabah in 1408. Borneo was ruled by Brunei and Sulu, the Islamic empires, so Islam plays an important part in Sabah history (Sabah Islamic Civilisation Museum).

4. Sabah has a long history of being part of the Sulu and Brunei sultanates and Islam exist and widely practice in Sabah long before the establishment of Malaysia. There are evidences of Islamic tombstones and old mosques in Sabah. And you should not look at the history of Sabah only started from 1963.

5. The so called ‘Sabahan’ are indigenous Muslims and non-Muslims alike. They are composed of more than 30 ethnic groups. It should be noted that many non-Muslim natives in Sabah embraced Islam and moved to the category of being Muslim Bumiputera or Muslim Anak Negeri. They have no issues of being Muslims and non-Muslims. They are against of any exportation of hatred based on religion.

6. As per Interpretation (Definition of Natives) Ordinance of North Borneo in 1952, indigenous Muslims Sabahan are also natives (anak negeri) and not at all ‘illegal immigrants’ and ‘refugees’. It should have been emphasized in this video, so there would be no misconceptions arise towards indigenous Muslims Sabahan.

7. If some Muslims arrived from the Sulu archipelago in 70’s due to war, it just because they have been coming back and forth before the establishment of the Federation of Malaysia in 1963. They are just like the other non-Muslims of the same race who are natives in both Sabah and Kalimantan (Indonesia) as their ancestral domain includes both territories and borders. But their presence in Sabah is not questioned.

8. Just like in West Malaysia, where not all residence at the time of Hari Merdeka was citizens. Hence, the issue of ‘Tamil Stateless’ is being regularised until today. It’s similar to Sabah where not all residence of Sabah at Malaysia Day were citizens as many were deemed undocumented including all the more than 30 indigenous ethnic groups in Sabah. There are huge population in Sabah including the non-Muslims who are still applying for citizenship.

9. For information, many indigenous people in Sabah don’t live by documents but culture and native domain compared to the affluent and 'educated' population in the cities.

10. Many Muslim people in Sabah live in the hundreds of islands and are nomadic. One of their ancestral homelands is in Sabah and its islands. And don't look at the history of this country only during and after Malaysia is established.

11. The Muslims and non-Muslims in Sabah are peacefully living side by side. The issue of religion should not be used to divide these natives. The wild conspiracy theory imposed by irresponsible political forces and racist elements are to divide Sabahans for political purpose.

12. The issue should deeply be corrected and studied, so the story and narrative can be a fair account of all, and so it may not become a one-sided story and ‘racist’ as well as ‘Islamophobic’ in nature.

13. It should be put in a term that Sabah is a vast and complicated state with hundreds of islands with different races of indigenous people (Muslims and non-Muslims alike) who are until today struggling to get documentation, citizenship and their rights due to the political propaganda and poverty as well as logistical issues and illiteracy.

14. This is not discounting that some corrupt officials have in the past issued fake IC’s or documents but it is not specifically limited to Muslim ethnics but including other non-Muslim ethnics that are part of the more than 30 ethnic groups as well as other ethnics from the other part of the world.

Thank you.

#SayangiMalaysiaku
#SelamatHariMalaysia

Here's the answer of the Newsflash Video Producer, commented in my FB Post:

Hello Neldy,

I am the producer of this episode of Newsflash. Thank you so much for taking the time to comment on it. I'm glad that there is an active discussion going on around a topic that has been shushed away for so long.

I wish to apologize as we were not able to go in depth on discussing the nature and religions of indigenous populations in Sabah. No doubt there have been Muslims in the region but because of the time constraint (we try to keep the episode within 8 minutes), we couldn't go in depth.

We did however acknowledge that most of the people that were given documents as part of project IC were the existing population but perhaps we focused too much on the political motivations of state actors.

We will do better next time. Thank you for voicing out your thoughts; it's discussions like these that keep us in check to be more considerate with our work.

Thanks once again.

- Satpal Kaler
19 September 2018
Producer , Newsflash

And Nadira Ilana answered him with this , in the same post:

You can go into depth. Your focus just needs to be more pointed. Political motivations were and always to Malaynise and ethnically absorb Borneo natives (Muslim and non-Muslim alike) into the Malay category because Malaysia was built on Malay supremacy. Hence Article 153 within the Federal Constitution. This is common knowledge in Sabah. The cultural erasure is despicable and should be held in the same gravity as indigenous peoples in Australia and Hawaii et al. Duration is not the issue. It’s the development of the story and idea so you can get to the ‘heart’ of the issue. Not just ‘part’ of the issue.

- Nadira Ilana

And Ecore Prayitno commented in Malay:

Neldy Jolo, Naratif dibina! Banyak saja sebenarnya kalau mahu persoalkan tindakan-tindakan politik era PBS. Malahan, hujah sama digunakan oleh Yusoff Ismail dalam bercerita politik non-Muslim di Sabah. Jadi bila tengok video ini, aku rasa matlamat politiknya lebih besar berbanding kehendaknya untuk menyampaikan maklumat.

- Ecore Prayitno

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Busong: Poetry on reel

8/11/2016

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When I came to the Kota Kinabalu International Film Festival last July 13, 2016, my only intention was to watch Heart of Gaya Street, a local documentary about life in Gaya Street. But, at the hallway outside the cinema, I met Ms. Jude Day, one of the festival's organizers. She introduced me to a guy from Palawan, who turned out, amazingly, to be the director of one of the films being screened during the festival, “Busong - Palawan Fate”.

Some of the films screened during the KK International film festival last July 13, 2016

What immediately caught my interest was the word “Busong”. It has a special place and meaning in my culture. In Orang Suluk or Tau Sug, it means retribution, a curse, or divine punishment for people’s disrespect of their tradition, culture, and ancient belief.

In the Malay world, the word refers to an edema believed to be caused by a curse from someone’s ancestors. It is often associated with black magic. To cure someone with “busung”, a shaman has to be called to recite some chants or administer treatment.

Curious now, I decided to check the film out. The film wouldn’t start until 8:00 pm. I was early.

I found my seat at the middle of the cinema. I forgot what number it was. Inside, the air conditioner was blowing cold air like the Arctic. I was shivering, but I decided not to mind the cold. It was my fault anyway for not bringing a sweater or jacket.

When the film was about to roll, they dimmed all the lights inside the cinema. The big screen in front of me started to come alive. As if on cue, everyone immediately became quiet. I couldn’t hear a single sound from anyone’s lips. In my tiny space I relaxed quietly, my eyes focused on the screen. I didn’t want to miss any single bit.

Busong tells the story of a girl named Punay (played by Filipina actress Alessandra de Rossi) who was born with mysterious wounds all over her body and whose feet had wounds so raw they keep her from walking. Her brother, Angkarang, carries her around, and together they roam the island in search for a cure. Along the way, they meet three people. Each of them also had their own sad stories to tell.

Busong’s storytelling is slow-paced, almost lyrical you’d feel like watching a poem unraveling itself on reel. And in the backdrop you’ll find Palawan. So mysterious, so unbelievably beautiful it makes you wonder if such a place really exists.

Busong’s director is an internationally acclaimed, multi-awarded filmmaker from Palawan. I was only introduced to him less than an hour before. But he didn’t seem to be a stranger to me at all. He told me that in Palawan, his tribal name means the ‘hunter of truth’. I also found out when I researched online later that it means ‘hit it with a powerful pierce’ in Malay, Indian and Tagalog.

Me and the director at the lobby before the screening

In a way, the film is like the director’s name, capturing your interest at first and then hitting you next with the powerful truth.

I didn’t know until I was told that he was actually Aureus Solito, the director of the multi-awarded film Ang Pagdadalaga ni Maximo Oliveros. That film was one of the wittiest, most astounding I’ve seen in 2005.

Busong is similarly astounding, but in a different way. In Busong, you’ll smile, get angry, and maybe cry at the same time.

Busong is not just the story of Punay and the people she and her brother meet while looking for a cure. It is also about Palawan, a land that is now in danger of dying because of people’s abuses. Busong is a silent protest over massive destruction of the environment, of people’s ancestral lands, and of native culture in Palawan, which, according to Punay, is a mountain that, like her, is bleeding and in pain. Thus the film is a warning to natives that if they don’t resist cultural invasion, they will be cursed by their ancestors accordingly.

Palawan’s predicament is not unique, as it happens to most places touched by colonialists. Once colonialists come in, they don’t just rob people of lands; they also strip and crush native culture, replacing it with their own.

The beauty of the film is not only in the big things, but also in the tiny details, such as that line from a man who says his pain has become too big it has grown enormous like the sun. The touching way in which he delivered this explains the gravity of his emotions. Even a person who isn’t familiar with the plight of natives in Palawan will understand.

I wasn’t very surprised that the cinema was almost filled during the screening. Everyone seemed to have connected with the place and the characters. Perhaps most everyone understood that Palawanons are interconnected with Sabahans in many ways--by culture, by ancient beliefs, by a shared sea and ancestors.

Watching the film, I felt myself immerse inside Punay’s and her brother’s world. Everything I saw reminded me to always keep myself intact and deeply connected to my origin and identity.

The director and Ms. Jude Day, one of the event's organizers

In the end, I saw the hand of the director throughout the film. After all, he may have just told his own story too as it seems to have blossomed from his backyard. His film reminds us about the value of authenticity in being. This last part seems to be exemplified by his own tribal name, Kanakan Balintagos.

I love you, peace. Let’s sail together. Layag Sug!

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Can't be solo in Solo

8/11/2016

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Note: This is Part 2 of my post regarding our travel to Jogjakarta and Solo as part of the Familiarization Trip sponsored by the Indonesian Tourism Ministry. You can read Part 1 here.

It’s 31st July, 2016. On this day, I can’t be solo in visiting Solo. I need to have someone with me to help me understand the different narratives and epics of the Solo kingdoms, the Sultanate, and the Sunanate. I can’t properly take notes of interesting rules in the past while visiting the Mangku Negaran (Sultan’s Palace), like those that have to be followed when the wife or husband is away from their homes.

Mangku Negaran from the outside

I can’t enjoy all these delicious food alone--the Tumis Wara Wiris, the healthy stir-fry dish, Djangan Ndeso, the native veggies and Carang Gesing or traditional banana sweets.

Yummy food

More yummy food

I was told that in the old days here, one way for the Sultan to restrain himself and avoid committing sins when away from his wife is by sheathing his phallus. Likewise when the wife is away, she’d put a covering plate on her fanny too. Those sheaths and covering plates were not ordinary. They were made of heavy gold with different designs and shapes.

1st August 2016. Earlier, the organizers told us we were going to Mount Merapi. I thought there was going to be heavy rain as the organizers gave each of us raincoats. I didn’t actually mind the rain. How heavy it would be, I had no idea. In my mind I was only thinking about the mountain and the villages we’d pass by going there.

I quickly tied my head with my kandit siyabit, a Suluk weaved shawl, before going inside our jeep. I also took jamu, a herbal tonic very popular in Indonesia. There are different kinds of Jamu. I chose the one for muscle pain and drank it with sugar syrup because it was too bitter for my taste.

From the city, it took us about an hour to reach the villages at the foot of the mountain. Along the way, we passed by the Alien Stone (a rock that looks like an alien) and took some photos for souvenir.

Alien Stone (Locals say this stone behind me may have come from the sky)

We then tried the siomai sold by locals before heading to the Sisa Hartaku, a mini-museum that reminded us of the mountain’s last eruption in 2010.

Sisa Hartaku Mini Museum

The museum is actually an old house with a collection of belongings from people who used to live near the area. I felt sad imagining how it must have been during the deadly eruption. How people must have ran to save their families. How they must have rushed to save the last of their animals and belongings. At the museum, I saw among the display some houseware, utensils, skeletons of cows, even a molten clock which showed the dials frozen to that day of the eruption, a reminder that from then on, time in this village would be divided into two: before and after.

Found an old bike and some animal bones in front of the Sisa Hartaku

Going back to the city, we passed by the Merapi River. We had to cover ourselves so we won’t get wet as the jeep was crossing the river too fast. Now I know what the raincoats were intended for.

2nd August 2016. Dawn had come. It was time to go the airport. It was hard to go, but I told myself this is not the last chance for me to be here.

As we waited for our flight to Jakarta, my phone buzzed. I grabbed it and typed some words. They were not goodbyes, because I don’t recognize goodbyes. I just wanted to save my words of happiness and thanks to the people who were instrumental in bringing us near their hearts during this Indonesia Familiarization Trip. I continued sipping black coffee in a small, white cup. Brother Lano Lan and brother Ruzaini aka Ahmad Dhani II were sitting near me beside a square, white table while looking at the runway where different planes passing by every minute.

I said in Malay, “God willing, we will meet again. There are many stories that we need to share together.” The reply in Malay came very fast. “Definitely, definitely, Brother. History is the past. Let’s do a new story.” And I said, “A new story is coming, Pak”. I was no longer expecting a reply from Pak Ruben as I knew he needed sleep, having flown directly to Jogjakarta after catching up with his work in Batam Island. He has not had sleep since he arrived. But he promised to be with our group for this trip.

No goodbye

As I enjoyed my last few minutes here with friends from the Indonesian Tourism Ministry, Pak Ruben, Mas Bondan, and the team of event organizers, Mbak Vian, Mas Eka, Pak Wisnu, and Mas Fitri, the team from Indonesia Consulate General, Kota Kinabalu, Pak Widodo, Ibu Wulan and Pak Daru, I realized that another page filled with historical moments had been carved on pages of my tiny notebook. I need to cuddle these memories and inscribe them in my bosom for future journeys ahead.

Before the flight took off, I thought of writing a poem. And I did. Please help me by reading gently, word by word, while I sleep quietly before arriving at Kuala Lumpur. I wrote. I am now asleep. Stop listening. Don’t move. And take hold. Here’s the poem:

I don't recognize the phrase "goodbye".
I really don’t.
Upon departing from the place I go,
I avoid “goodbye”
Saying such word is the saddest thing to do.
This wide ground is but a symbol.
A signal that I will be here again.
Again and again, I will come.
I will return.
The historical and cultural visits are waiting.

I love you, peace. Let's sail together. Layag Sug!

For travel and tour inquiry please contact the numbers and address below:

FAUZIAH JELSON
Tedar Tours and Travel Sdn. Bhd
Managing Director
Mobile: +60168322339

Lot, No. 7, 1st Floor, Block C, Metro Town
88300 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia
Tel: +6088389337
Fax: +6088432830
Email: tedar_tours@yahoo.com

SALLMA ABDULLAH
Al Furqan Travel and Tours Sdn. Bhd
Branch Manager
Mobile: +60193671919
Email: sallma@alfurqangroup.com

Lot 1-32A, 1st Floor, Star City North Complex, Jalan Asia City
88000 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia
Tel: +6088268730
Fax: +6088269730
Email: info.bki@alfurqangroup.com

PT. EDEN GEMILANG
Komplek Agave Raya,
Blok A1 LT. IV No.40 Kedoya Selatan,
Kebon Jeruk, Jakarta Barat 11520
Tel: +6221 5800815 / +6221 5807590
Fax: +6221 5828969
Mobile: +62811999931(Serena)
Email: edengemilang@yahoo.com

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Jogjakarta: A prosperous city of knowledge

8/7/2016

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"Jogjakarta” always sounds like a song of romance to me. Its rhythm evokes a feeling of warmth and acceptance. Like an unfinished poem, it beckons one to come in and fill missing lines. Some things here beg for experience.

I’ve been here once, in 2012. During that time, the places we went to were the most common ones, like Borobudur and Prambanan Temples and Malioboro Street. We also went to the Zero Kilometer Point of the city, which is near the Malioboro Street. I didn’t stay at five-star hotels, but I remember all my accommodations felt like palaces meant for kings.

Today is my second time to step on this ground. It’s 29th July, 2016. The sun shines over a bustling and busy city. I see many changes have occurred since last I was here. Now, I see taller buildings standing high. The streets are more crowded with faces of varying colors and degrees of beauty.

a view of the city from my hotel room

The city seems to be teeming now with more modern and taller buildings, but what I am excited about is meeting people here again. I couldn’t forget the warmth and cheerfulness of everyone I met from my last visit.

My hopes and dreams have been answered. I’m back again as I’ve always wanted.

It is not hard to make friends here. Everyone seems kind, respectful, and helpful. Not to mention learned. Jogjakarta is known as the ‘Students’ City’ or ‘Cultural City’. It may not be incorrect too if I call it the ‘Knowledge City’ or Kota Ilmu. Everyone seems to be fully aware of their own history and their ancestors’ contributions to Indonesia’s nationhood.

very friendly local

Some history and politics

On August 1 while visiting the Kraton Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat, a palace complex which also serves as a museum and cultural center, we learned more about the region’s politics and history.

entrance to the Sultan Palace

Jogjakarta is a special region in Indonesia. It has His Highness the Sultan sitting as the city governor. This political organization is similar to those of sultanates in Malaysia where Sultans still rule their own states as heads of state, although in Malaysia they don’t function as heads of government.

With the Sultan as its head of state, Jogjakarta is the only region in Indonesia that is still governed by a pre-colonial monarchy. This same monarchy has existed for hundreds of years and survived through Dutch and Japanese invasion.

at the Sultan Palace

Jogjakarta is just like other sultanates in the ‘Malay World’ like the Patani, Sulu and Maguindanao. But unlike the three, it didn’t bite the political hooks of colonialists. Maguindanao and Sulu continue to exist until now, but only as faint shadows of their glorious pasts.

Note to self: When I go home, it will be a good point for me to study how the city held up against the colonial Dutch until Indonesia’s de facto independence in 17th August 1945, exactly seventy-one years ago on Malaysia’s Independence month--the same month of my birth and my visit.

me at the Sultan Palace

Art and culture

Batik

Batik is the art of decorating cloth and creating beautiful, intricate patterns using wax and dye. If you go around Jogjakarta, you will find lots of stores selling beautiful batik fabric, dresses, bags, and others.

People here must be very proud of their batik designs. They all look very beautiful. I’ve seen lots of Batik in other places as well, but here they’re bolder and more colorful.

Batik of Jogjakarta

I was told that the word “batik” comes from the phrase ‘amba setitik demi setitik, which means “to write drop by drop”. In Indonesia, there are batik designs that are meant exclusively for members of the royalty, while there are those reserved for common people.

Millions of batik designs are exhibited in the Batik Danar Hadi and Batik Omah Laweyan at Solo or Surakarta. In Jogjakarta, you can see them everywhere including the Ullen Sentalu Museum, a culture and art museum located on top of a hill, and about thirty minutes from the city.

woman selling Batik clothing

Today we went to the museum, passing by native villages and green canopies along the way. It was a refreshing sight. When we arrived, I jumped off the bus immediately, only to be greeted by a gush of air chillier than that inside our air-conditioned bus.

entrance of the Ullen Sentalu Museum

A bunch of local women selling the Salak Madu or the honeyed snake fruit approached us. Salak Madu looks scaly like a snake on the outside, but the inside is very sweet, maybe sweeter than honey. It’s everyone’s favorite fruit in Jogjakarta. Everywhere in the city or even in the countryside you can find people selling or eating Salak Madu. People also sell them along the art streets near the gate to the Buddhist Borobudur Temple, one of the World Heritage Sites in Indonesia together with the Hindu Prambanan Temple.

local women selling Salak Madu

Inside the museum, there are paintings, old photographs, poetry pieces, letters, and narratives written in Javanese and Malay language and translated into English and Dutch. I saw a lot of representations of old Javanese culture. But what amazed me the most is the striking similarity between Javanese culture and Suluk culture. For instance, they have this xylophone-like instrument called “gambang”, which is exactly the same as the Suluk “gabbang”, only bigger. Early Javanese use writing scripts called the Aksara Jawa, which are similar to Suluk scripts called Luntarsug. And they have these chants called uyon-uyon/klenengan (which I overheard being played in the background), which sound almost the same as the Suluk chant called “lugu”.

A "gambang" like this is displayed at the Ullen Sentalu Museum, looking strikingly similar to the Suluk "gabbang", only bigger

Nevertheless, I had my time touring around Prambanan Temple in 2012, wondering how it was greatly designed, how it comes in precise measurements. How it was built with such advanced level of engineering that even until now, scientists and archaeologists are still baffled by it.

Sugeng Rawuh

Sugeng Rawuh was the phrase that welcomed us upon our arrival at Jogjakarta’s city airport. It means ‘welcome’ in Javanese and ‘selamat datang’ in Malay, or in English, ‘You’ve safely arrived’.

At the museum earlier, we found one of the letters of the Sultan addressed to the people. A word struck me there. ‘Dumateng’. While reading the letter, Pak Wido told me what it means in Malay--to or toward. The root word of ‘dumateng’ must have come from the word ‘datang’ which means ‘arrive’ and ‘reach’. It is also similar to the Suluk word ‘dumatung’, which also means ‘to arrive or to reach’.

It’s not surprising to me that the city of Jogjakarta is an integral center of the ‘Wonderful Indonesia’ program. It is the perfect representation of an authentic Malay world. Thus we’re fortunate that despite the difficulty of having to wake up early and jump from one airport terminal to another (a total of five all in all including Kota Kinabalu, Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta, Jogjakarta), we still arrived here.

stupas at Borobudur

Ramayana epic play

We walked around a friendly city, witnessed a play of the Ramayana Epic. We learned about Jogjakarta or Yogyakarta originating from Ayodha, the ‘proper, fit, suitable’ city from Ramayana Epic and karta which means prosperous and flourishing’. Jogjakarta is indeed ‘a city that is fit to prosper’.

In a way, I see some connection between Ayodha and the word ‘ayura’, which in Bahasa Suluk means ‘to take care’. In Spanish, there's a word called ‘ayuda’ which means ‘help’. Thus, Jogjakarta flourished when the leaders and people help one another in taking care of the city.

There's many more to talk about. But I can’t just simply capture Jogjakarta in one poem or article. It’s not enough for me to capture all the beauty and wisdom I’ve learned here. I can only thank the good people who invited me to this Familiarization Trip and for letting me truly experience Wonderful Indonesia.

In my next article, I write about Solo, Mount Merapi and the Sisa Hartaku Museum. But before you read that, let me first thank the Indonesian Tourism Ministry, Pak Ruben, Mas Bondan, and the team of event organizers, Mbak Vian, Mas Eka, Pak Wisnu, and Mas Fitri, the team from Indonesia Consulate General, Kota Kinabalu, Pak Wido, Ibu Wulan and Pak Daru. Without them, this whole experience would not have been immensely enjoyable.

I love you, peace. Let's sail together. Layag Sug!

me, my friends and organizers of this Familiarization Trip

For travel and tour please contact the numbers and addresses:

FAUZIAH JELSON
Tedar Tours and Travel Sdn. Bhd
Managing Director
Mobile: +60168322339

Lot, No. 7, 1st Floor, Block C, Metro Town
88300 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia
Tel: +6088389337
Fax: +6088432830
Email: tedar_tours@yahoo.com

SALLMA ABDULLAH
Al Furqan Travel and Tours Sdn. Bhd
Branch Manager
Mobile: +60193671919
Email: sallma@alfurqangroup.com

Lot 1-32A, 1st Floor, Star City North Complex, Jalan Asia City
88000 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia
Tel: +6088268730
Fax: +6088269730
Email: info.bki@alfurqangroup.com

PT. EDEN GEMILANG
Komplek Agave Raya,
Blok A1 LT. IV No.40 Kedoya Selatan,
Kebon Jeruk, Jakarta Barat 11520
Tel: +6221 5800815 / +6221 5807590
Fax: +6221 5828969
Mobile: +62811999931(Serena)
Email: edengemilang@yahoo.com

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Belitung: Cultural rainbow and site for religious tourism

6/21/2016

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Homecoming

I arrived at the Kota Kinabalu International Airport at 5:00 AM on 12th May 2016. I was still feeling groggy. My younger sister who drove me to the airport looked like she could use a few more hours of sleep. I waved goodbye to her, thanking her and wishing her a safe drive going home.

Just as I was about to enter the airport’s sliding door, my phone rang. Abang Naddin, a colleague from Utusan Borneo, was on the line. He asked me to check my inbox.

When I read his message, I didn’t know whether to laugh or to feel sad. Our flight, which was supposed to be at 7 am, had been moved to 8:50 am.

I sat for breakfast waiting for my colleagues to arrive. While sipping my brewed coffee, I thought about the trip. I remembered that after flying to Jakarta and visiting Palembang, we would be visiting Belitung Island. I didn’t know much about Belitung, except that it was the setting for Laskar Pelangi (The Rainbow Troops), a famous movie I heard about in 2008.

Adapted from a novel of the same title, Laskar Pelangi was written in 2005 by Indonesian author Andrea Hirata. The movie adaptation was directed by acclaimed director Riri Riza. Its producer, Mira Lesmana, hired local children of Belitung to be part of the cast, which included Indonesia’s top actors and actresses at the time.

I read that Laskar Pelangi is Indonesia’s all-time highest-grossing movie to date. It received numerous awards, both locally and internationally. But the movie would not have been as successful and as famous if not for the island and the local children that shaped the story and made it seem more real and endearing to audiences.

After more than an hour, Pak Wido from the Consulate of Indonesia in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia arrived. Soon our other colleagues started arriving. I seemed to be the only one indeed who wasn’t aware of our flight change.

On the 16th of May 2016, I was on another flight again.

our plane arriving in Belitung on 5/16/16

This time we were off to Belitung Island from Jakarta, and this time I had the correct schedule. I was in the aisle seat of our twin-aisle aircraft, anxiously stretching my neck to get a view of the scenery far below.

Nearing Belitung island, I saw a vast crystal blue sea and a white, seemingly endless beachline. A bright blue sky draped all over the island.

For an islander like myself, coming to Belitung Island was like a homecoming. I remembered being at the bay of Sandakan once again, watching its side of the majestic Sulu Sea.

The Garuda Indonesia was about to land. Bro Ruzaini pointed me to a soft rainbow curving its charming colors towards our window. My thoughts flashed back to the remarkable story about ten poor children who came to be called “Laskar Pelangi” by their inspiring teacher, Ibu Muslimah. It was Ibu Muslimah who continued teaching and giving them hope despite only receiving a sack of rice as her salary.

We landed at Belitung’s airport in Tanjung Pandan, in the province of Bangka-Belitung. Later, I learned that the airport was named after a former regent, Lieutenant Coronel H.A.S Hanandjoeddin. Belitung Island is located on the east coast of Sumatra in the Java Sea. Our tour guide, Mas Agus Pahlevi, told us that the island’s population is about 271, 868.

Speaking jolly with his pantun, Mas Agus guided us to the tourist bus that had been waiting for us even before our flight landed. Mas Agus said he was happy meeting us, as he had visited Kota Kinabalu before and was familiar with our ways and needs.

Mas Agus Pahlevi was fascinating. As a new acquaintance, he spoke a lot and was articulate and fluent. He seemed to be knowledgeable about the island’s history and culture, even its flora and fauna. He also knew a lot about the island’s tin and white pepper business.

After taking photos with some colleagues, I walked fast to the bus as my stomach was already growling. It became worse when I heard that we were heading to a native food restaurant. Thankfully, the restaurant, Timpu Duluk, was only 30 minutes away.

The interior of Timpu Duluk was stunning. I almost forgot my hunger. The wall was carefully patched and lined up with a collection of old wooden utensils, a bicycle, local agricultural tools, and even woven farmers’ and fishermen’s hats.

interiors of Timpu Duluk restaurant

After a while, my growling stomach pulled me towards a long table where different kinds of local viands were carefully arranged.

I sat at the rear end of the table, beside Pak Wido and my other colleague Ruzaini from Metro News. Food was served in small glass and ceramic plates. My eyes were focused on the squid soup, one of my favorite viands along with fried tuna. These were perfect partners for the white rice. While eating, I couldn’t help but remember what Mas Agus Pahlevi told us about the colossal rock formations towering the Tanjung Tinggi beach. Thinking of this as I ate, I imagined myself on the beach already, paddling a plate as my boat, seawater splashing all over me like a fountain. A hungry mind makes funny thoughts.

native food served at Timpu Duluk

Origin

From the start, I’ve been very curious about how Belitung got its name. In the old times, people used to refer to Belitung as Billiton, an island famous for its plentiful tektites. Tektites are small black glassy objects, many of which are found over the earth's surface. They are believed to have been formed as molten debris in meteorite impacts and scattered widely through the air. They are also called agni mani, which in Sanskrit means “fire pearls” or “teardrops from the moon”.

The origin of the name Billiton is unknown. We were told there was a Dutch mining company in 1860 of the same name that acquired rights to tin mining in the island. The island’s name may have only been mistaken to be Billiton from Belitung by the Dutch or otherwise. I am not so sure.

But I could not sleep until I’ve found the etymology of Belitung and Billiton. I thought perhaps deconstructing the name itself may help me find a clue to the island’s name.

I started with the word Beli or Bael, which refers to a fruit-bearing tree known as pokok Maja. This is also the tree where the Majapahit Kingdom got its name. And then I looked for the meaning of the words Tong and Tung. Tong means “a place” or a “container” while Tung refers to the “imitative sound of the gong”. Both could have formed the word Belitong or Belitung.

I also looked for the meanings of the suggestive words Billi and Ton. I found different meanings for Billi, but the ones that seemed to make sense are “a very gorgeous girl” and “knows exactly what to say, always”. I also learned that Ton means “a large amount or number” or “a unit of weight which equals to 1000 kilograms”. Both could also have formed the word Billiton.

After about an hour at Tanjung Pandan town buying swimming shorts and slippers and eating ice cream, we set out to Manggar, a place where we were promised to taste a unique blend of black coffee. Along the way, I was observing sights from left to right of the road. My eyes couldn’t seem to count the number of mosques scattered all over the place. Almost every village that we passed by has one.

We spent some time taking photographs at Kelapa Kampit Chinese temple before reaching Manggar. After about ¸two hours coffee craving, we arrived at Manggar, the “city of a thousand coffee shops.” With so many coffee shops lined up on each side of the road, this place is heaven for every kahawarista. We went inside a small shop and sat down. It was about 7 pm.

Kang Djic restaurant in Manggar (w/c has been operating since WW2)

The black coffee served with hot banana fritters were making our chit chat with Pak Ruben, Pak Wido, Mas Bondan, Maya, Bro Ruzaini and Pak Francis more delightful. We talked about our desire to meet novelist Andrea Hirata and teacher Ibu Muslimah. As someone who is engaged in creative writing, I consider my trip to Belitung not fully complete and satisfying if I couldn’t meet either of them and take at least a side trip to visit the school. Sadly, we were informed that the novelist had gone back to Jakarta. Perhaps we could still visit Ibu Muslimah, the replica of the primary school where she was teaching, and the Museum Kata built by Andrea Hirata.

After Manggar, there are still many other beautiful islands to visit in Belitung. I couldn’t wait to see all of them. One of the islands in Belitung that have popular landmarks is Lengkuas Island. Lengkuas island has perfectly clear blue waters, fine white sand, and a unique chain of granite stones. It also has a 16-floors- and 65-meters-high towering lighthouse built in 1882 by Dutch colonial government.

In about 20 minutes, we reached the island.

rock formations @ Lengkuas Island

at Lengkuas Island

Dutch lighthouse at Lengkuas Island

My colleagues went snorkeling while I sat listening to Mas Agus, our very own knowledgeable guide, narrating the different stories about the island and its granite stones. One of the most exciting of his narrations was about eating, of course.

Our lunch would be in a restaurant at a nearby island, he said. He pointed his finger to a flattened island, which he said is named Kepayang. Kepayang Island is best for its sumptuous food. After a while, we rode the boat and went to the island for lunch. While waiting for the grilled fish to be served, I took one glass of black coffee. The fish is called Pugut in Bahasa Suluk. It is a favorite of the Suluk people in Sabah. The viand that was served early was the Chili Crabs.

Not far from the restaurant, there is a “sailing rock island” known to locals as Pulau Batu Berlayar. The boat passed by near it, concluding our island hopping. If it were not for time constraint, I would have visited the island and all other islands in Belitung. There’s always a story to tell about each of them. As they say, it’s just a matter of how one appreciates the preciousness of each one.

It was not long before we reached Tanjung Pendam, a cape where our hotel, Grand Hatika is located. In front of it there are nice places to hang out. There is a karaoke den and a place for music gigs. But I was not fortunate enough to enjoy these places, where dusk time is said to be the best moment to enjoy.

I was told that if one would sit at the beach pavilion, he’d be presented a view of a beautiful sunset. I could imagine myself sitting there, contemplating the moment. Again I didn’t have the chance to witness the sunset showing its charm to my camera’s lens. I’ll just have to experience this the next time I visit.

On our way back to the hotel from Manggar during our first night there, I was reminded by Pak Ruben’s words, “our journey to Belitung will be more interesting with the cooperation of everyone who’d unveil its beauty to the eyes of the world”.

Our second night here, Abang Naddin’s friends, poet and musician, Pak Yudi and Pak Yuda drove us to their home. The motorcycle convoy was running slowly. When we arrived at their home, we were served a cup of coffee along with delicious fish cakes. I still laugh silently when I see a fish cake. Its story had been related to us by Pak Wido and Pak Andhika earlier, during our courtesy call with Consul General Pak Akhmad Daya Handasah Irfan at the office of the Indonesian Consulate General in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia.

That was a day before we flew to Jakarta for the Familiarization Trip 2016 to witness “Wonderful Indonesia”. Fish cakes are called Kapal Selam in Belitung. Kapal Selam literally means a “submarine”. Imagine the people of Belitung eating submarines. Indeed terrifying.

State of the Rainbow Troops

The morning of our flight back to Jakarta, we packed early and checked out from the hotel as we’ve been briefed the night before. But before that, we had to head back to Manggar to meet Ibu Muslimah. Those who’d be joining would be in white and black cars. Other colleagues that were set to go straight to the airport took the bus. I was with Pak Ruben, Mas Bondan and Jason in one car.

Not far from the hotel, Pak Ruben stopped for a while to meet a friend of his. The front wall of the small shop where we stopped had a wooden board that read: “Kong Djie Coffee, sejak 1943”. It means this coffee shop was started during the Second World War. This was the same branch of coffee shop at Manggar where we set our last stop before heading to the airport.

Ibu Muslimah’s house is not far from the island’s office of culture and tourism, where we had a short glance of the museum-like office to learn more about the cultural story of Belitung, including the Hantu Bubuh, which literally means a “fish cage ghost”.

Everyone laughed when Ibu Muslimah asked me about my status while we continued chatting before leaving.

Ibu Muslimah talking about Laskar Pelangi

a marker for the area where the movie, Laskar Pelangi, was shot

Museum Kata (Words Museum), established by Andrea Hirata in Manggar

These and many other charming things make Belitung a cultural rainbow and a site for religious tourism. I’m sure the Indonesian Tourism Ministry can make cultural tours like the one we just had.

Not long after our chat with Ibu Muslimah, we departed, flying Sri Wijaya Air back to Jakarta. As I sat for the takeoff, I felt really good. I had packed good memories about Belitung that would never fade away. I’d keep them alive in written pieces like poems and articles like this.

If you're interested about Belitung, or if you need help with booking your travel there, you may contact the following:

Ms Connie Chong, General Manager
Fun Holiday Tours and Travel SDN. BHD
Lot 8, 3rd Floor, Block H, Sadong Jaya Complex,
88200 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, East Malaysia
Tel: +6088250092
Fax: +6088250093 / 729301
Email: conniechongphuiyun@hotmail.com
Website: www.sabahfun.com

Mr Agus Pahlevi
Ketua Asosiasi Pelaku Pariwisata Indonesia Bangka-Belitung.
Mobile: +62 8127194066
Email address : levi_tour@yahoo.co.id

Mr Franciscus Aryanto
Kepala Sub-bagian Promosi Pariwisata, Dinas Kebudayaan dan Pariwisata Kabupaten Belitung Timur.
Mobile: +62 813-6833-8977

I love you, peace! Let's sail together. Layag Sug!

2 Comments

Palembang: A flood of many things

5/18/2016

4 Comments

The day of our arrival at Jakarta from Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia via Brunei, I was already feeling excited. We were now just an hour’s plane ride away from Palembang, the once capital of the great Sri Vijaya Empire. This is more exciting than having it read in the books. I’ve read a bit about Palembang from history books. My dream of visiting the place would soon become a reality.

Home to almost 2 million people, Palembang is Southeast Asia’s second oldest city. As the capital of the Sri Vijaya Empire, it once held vast power and influence over most parts of Southeast Asia, including current Malaysia, Solot (Sulu archipelago) and Brunei.

To me, this trip is my chance to journey back to the past.

I was travelling with Pak Widodo, Pak Andhika and Pak Toso from the Indonesian Consulate General in Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia. My friends from the media as well as the travel agents and travel operators group were with us as well. We were there for Familiarization Trip 2016, a trip organized by the Ministry of Tourism Indonesia and Consulate General of Indonesia in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia. I can’t thank them enough for this trip. In Jakarta, we were warmly welcomed by our trip organizers Ibu Serena Pane, Pak Wisnu and Pak Eka.

Going to Palembang, we took a flight via Garuda Indonesia in the morning of 13 May 2016. While flying over the place I looked through my plane window, trying to make something of the vast, green scenery below. This was my first time flying to Palembang. As one of the most mentioned historical places in Nusantara, I couldn’t wait to see how beautiful it is.

I was overwhelmed listening to our eloquent tour guide, Bapak Latiff from Indonesia Tour Guide Association. While listening to him about history, culture, culinary, tourist destinations and other ancient beautiful places in Palembang, I was observing a large construction site along the road. I was informed later that it was a construction site for a new LRT rail. The project is part of the Indonesian government preparation for Asian Games 2018, which Palembang is hosting along with Jakarta.

In the bus, Pak Latiff talked about the nearby Musi River on the east coast of South Sumatra. One of the major landmarks there is the Ampera Bridge, which connects the two regions of Palembang--the Seberang Hulu from the south and the Seberang Hilir from the north.

The Ampera Bridge was built during the time of Soekarno, Indonesia’s first president. It used to be named Bung Karno Bridge after him but was later renamed Ampera Bridge, short for Amanat Penderitaan Rakyat, which means the mandate of the people's suffering. The construction was part of a Japanese war reparations program. Designed as a vertical-lift bridge, it had a mechanism that could allow it to open to let ships pass below it. For a few years after it was opened, the center span could be lifted to allow ships to pass underneath. However starting 1970, the government stopped allowing ships to pass through.

The day after arriving in Palembang, we went cruising the Musi River. I couldn’t stop clicking my camera to take pictures of villages beside the riverbank. All those uniform looking houses with red or brown roof bricks seemed to make a fine contrast against the greenery around them. Children were playing happily, jumping and swimming by the riverside. Ladies were washing clothes while some men were fishing. Docked quietly at another side of the river are several colorful, uniquely designed wooden boats. It seemed to me that life here is easy and enjoyable.

Near Kampung Kapitan just along the river is a village called Arab Al-Munawar, which is home to many Arab descendants from Yemen. I felt at home there. The community welcomed us with the soothing music, flute and dance. At the house of the village leader, we were served Yemeni traditional foods such as Nasi Kebuli (a spicy rice dish) and other viands blended with local taste. The leader, Habib Ahmad Al-Kaff, is 65 years old.

He told me that the village got its name after Abdurrahman Al-Munawar, a Yemeni who married a local Malay lady and lived there with his family since 1700’s. Sitting near the verandah, the wind blowing through my face, I continued asking Habib about the village’s houses and how old they are.

Habib smiled, seemingly nostalgic while talking to me. According to him, there are about eight houses in the village that are estimated to be more than a century old, but the village itself is about three hundred years old. The houses are made of rocks, cement, and a special kind of wood material known as Merbau or Unglen, which is water resistant. Most of the houses are pyramid-like in structure with a touch of Middle Eastern and European motif. Carvings and ornaments are combined of Malay and Chinese in style.

At Pulau Kemaru, I sipped coconut juice with Pak Ruben, Subdivision Head of Familiarization Trip for Southeast Asia and Pak Widodo (from the Indonesian Consulate General, Kota Kinabalu) together with Ruzaini (from Metro, Kota Kinabalu), Maya (from Utusan Borneo), and Mbak Mia (from Ministry of Tourism Indonesia).

Prior to this, I was interviewed by a reporter from Metro TV News, a local TV station. I was asked about my opinion about the place. I told her that the place is calm and suited for someone who wants to write song lyrics. It is also a good spot to write poems and short stories.

Before the interview I was roaming around the island looking at a giant Pagoda and a Beringin tree known as Pohon Cinta where people flock to for its coldness and serenity. Pulau Kemaru is also known for the love story of Prince Tan Bun An, a Chinese prince, and Siti Fatimah, a Malay Princess. As I have written some poems here, I am looking forward to writing more poems and stories about the place, culture, people, foods and history.

After two days in Palembang, it was already time to go. I was with the group expecting Ibu Irene Camelyn Sinaga, Head of Culture and Tourism of South Sumatra to arrive the morning of May 15. When we talked at Arista Hotel, one of the best hotels in Palembang, I felt that she confirmed my thoughts about poems when she said, “We have poets and poems here and legends as well as culture and history. When you hear of Palembang, it is synonymous to Sri Vijaya”.

Palembang is not only a place flooded by river water, as its name comes from “pa”, which means “place” and “lembang” which means “flooded by water”. It is also a place flooded with local exotic foods, ancient megalithic stone carvings, and legends. Almost everything that I need there is easy to be found. Exotic foods are easy to find in the city. It is found in every corner of the roads and buildings, like all different kinds of Pindang Ikan or boiled fish. The megalithic stone carving are found in the State Museum Balaputra Dewa where the Rumah Limas, the house imprinted in the Ten-Thousand Indonesian Rupiah Bill, can also be found.

As I was thanking the team from the Indonesian Ministry of Tourism, Indonesian Consulate General, Kota Kinabalu and Indonesian local travel partners, I want to quote Pak Ruben’s reply: “Thanks are due to the time that we have spent together, the time we were able to know each other and enjoy the beauty and wonders of Indonesia. We are especially grateful for the chance of establishing brotherhood and friendship among us all. We hope to see you again.”

I also want to thank Pak Andhika. I still can remember sitting with him inside the bus. Before the trip to Palembang ended, he humbly said, “I am grateful to have our guests from Kota Kinabalu and these are one of the best places that we can offer in Indonesia.” This is what Wonderful Indonesia is all about.

I hope to come back again there. If you haven’t been there yet, I recommend that you go. There are direct flights from Kota Kinabalu to Jakarta. From Jakarta, you can take a one-hour flight to Palembang. There are also many tour packages that arrange your trip to Palembang, South Sumatra, Indonesia. Inquiries could be made through the Ministry of Tourism Indonesia and through local travel agents. Before anchoring our sail, let us read one of my poems I wrote at Arista Hotel, on 15 May 2016 at 7:48AM.

HATI DAN JIWA WARGA

Tidak sah datang ke Palembang
jika tidak menatap Ampera
jembatan dibina ada cerita
dari hati dan jiwa warga.

Amanat Penderitaan Rakyat
namanya diambil dikenang ummat
sejarah tidak harus dilepas
kerana itu hidup terbebas.

Bung Karno namanya dulu
dari Jepang mula dibantu
seksaan Perang Dunia Kedua
penderitaan warga diberi makna.

Jembatan ini tanda kesatuan
tiada siapa bisa menentang
terbina benar luahan hati
datang kemari mendapat erti.

Kami di sini menyusur sungai
tempat laluan di Sungai Musi
kapal berhias indah berlabuh
penduduk maju bersatu padu.

I love you, peace. Let’s sail together. Layag Sug!

Local Travel Agents:

Connie Chong, General Manager
Fun Holiday Tours and Travel SDN. BHD
Lot 8, 3rd Floor, Block H, Sadong Jaya Complex,
88200 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, East Malaysia
Tel: +6088250092
Fax: +6088250093 / 729301
Email: conniechongphuiyun@hotmail.com
Website: www.sabahfun.com

GH Mulia Travel
Jalan Veteran No. 173 A, Palembang
Tel: (62-711) 351587, 353377
Fax: (62-711) 3513382
Website: www.gamahitaindonesia.com

Tourism Office:

Jalan Demang Lebar Daun Kav. IX,
Palembang, Sumatra Selatan, Indonesia
Tel: (62-711) 356661, 311345, 357348
Fax: (62-711) 311544
Email: info@diparss.go.id
Website: www.sumsel.go.id

4 Comments

Behind this kahawa sug, a woman

5/8/2016

0 Comments

One afternoon on 25 April 2016, I was with my old friend Prof. Nur Danial, sitting by the beach overlooking the Zamboanga side of the Sulu Sea. It was not too cold that day. I enjoyed the sea breeze touching my face and arms while conversing with Prof. Nur about creative writing for Tausug audiences. We talked about the idea to hold a poetry-reading session on a Tausug poem called Tarasul, which means a correspondence, a handwritten piece, a speech or spoken piece containing metaphorical words and expressions that are elusive.

Without hesitation, we decided to hold it at Dennis Coffee Garden in Block 2, Lot 8, San Jose Road, Baliwasan, Zamboanga City, because we thought poetry is best experienced with cups of deliciously brewed native coffee. My friend Marj Imran was to join us in this poetry session. Marj Imran is my high school classmate and our valedictorian. She and I already discussed the idea a few days before when I handed over to her my book ‘Sulug in Sabah’ with a message in Bahasa Sug - ‘mataud kahanungan ha gulangan’, which means ‘more peace in the wilderness’ in English. Her brother, my friend Atty. Adzlan Imran was also there and shared his insights during the discussion.

Girillia Tarasul or Poetry Guerrilla was to be the title of our poetry-reading activity that night. The invitation I posted on my Facebook wall featured Prof Nur himself as the Tausug poet who has written many poems and short stories in Bahasa Sug using his pen name Lahir Batin. During the activity, friends from different backgrounds came to join us, including the author of ‘A Taste of Culture’, Tuan Hadji Alfrazer Ahalul.

Prior to this activity, I had been visiting Dennis Coffee Garden to share thoughts with many friends. Some of them were old friends, some I just met in person after befriending them on Facebook while campaigning for ‘Right to Hijab’ a few years back.

Dennis Coffee Garden has been in my heart since it started its operation in Zamboanga City in 2015. Its branch in Jolo, Sulu has been known to me since 1994. It is perhaps the only coffee shop in town (or perhaps in the whole of the Philippines) that allows customers to order a half-cup of coffee. There, people enjoy their coffee alongside delicious Sulu pastries called Bangbang Sug.

During my recent stay in Zamboanga, I’d visit Dennis Coffee Garden almost every night. I consider the place as my own Coffee University of Thoughts. It has become so familiar to me now that even if I close my eyes I could see every tiny details of its furniture and decors, even the light green and violet colors of its facade on a black-and-white photo, which I took through my smart phone.

The whole feel of Dennis creates an ambiance of peace and harmony even to newcomers. Professionals, academicians, young people, artists, musicians, social workers, and health workers come to Dennis often, turning the place into one of Zamboanga City’s center of thoughts, beliefs, and cultures. Over time, Dennis has grown into an important place where different people of different religious affiliations converge to share time and space together.

Dennis is known to every Kahawarista, or coffee freak, in town. As a coffee lover myself, I can’t remember now how many times I’ve been to Dennis. Every time I hear the word “Dennis”, the smell of freshly brewed Sulu coffee invades my mind, reminding me so much of home.

Many people, even those that are not Tausug, visit the place too. Some of them come for the coffee; some for the many other unforgettable delicacies the place offers: Tiyula' Itum (black soup), Piyanggang (roasted chicken), Satti (saucy dish), Apam (grated-coconut pancake), Daral (flour omelet) and Jualan (banana fritters).

Dennis to Greeks means ‘god of wine’, while to the Turks it means ‘sea’ (they spell it ‘Deniz’). These meanings coincide with the idea of crossing the legendary Sulu Sea and becoming the den of coffee and thoughts in Zamboanga City. Since expanding in Zamboanga, Dennis has slowly become not just a coffee haven in this southern side of the archipelago but also a place where Tausugs can proudly embrace their identity and where non-Tausugs can experience the warmth of Tausug culture.

With its furniture and interiors carefully crafted by skilled Tausug artisans, Dennis captures the pride of Sulu. Visiting the place, one could catch a glimpse of the history, culture, tradition, customs, arts, music and social world of the people of the Sulu archipelago.

I can easily relate to the thought of Raz Itum, a Tausug musician-lyricist who posted this line in his Facebook wall on 22 April 2016: “Time will come when everyone in my tribe will declare themselves as Tausug instead of being Filipino. The gap is fast widening.”

He pointed out that “The Filipino identity might soon become a point of question followed by crisis and ultimately, amnesia. Filipinos are more divided now in almost all aspects and axes of society - values, income, perspective and life goals. The resulting difference is slowly compounding towards indifference which slowly kills patriotism and soon, humanity.

He ended his post with the short statement of prayer, “Thank God, I still am and ever will be, Tausug.”

The thoughts shared by Tuan Hadji Alfrazer Ahalul while chewing his mama’ (betel-nut) reminded me of something from the past--that the Sulu archipelago once had its own self-government and statehood. Hadji Al, as he is known to me and other friends, is the in-charge of Dennis. He shared to me how Dennis started as a coffee ambassador in the past. The venture was started by an eight-year-old girl, Ubbaisa from Patikul, who was born in 1920s. Ubbaisa spent her childhood near the village with lumbaan or pasuhan kura’, a horse racing field. As a young girl, she started picking coffee berries in their backyards.

As the first child, she was taught the knowledge of coffee by her mother. She came to learn how to prepare coffee after boiling, grinding and filtering them with a piece of cloth, and then serving them to both local and Japanese horse racers and coffee enthusiasts before the Second World War. Back then, she didn’t see the need to commercialize their coffee, as it had been part of their culture to drink coffee every day. It took time and a lot of effort to establish Dennis and get it to where it is now.

Today, Dennis Coffee Garden is not just Zamboanga’s best place to enjoy coffee but also the city’s best place to experience authentic Sulu culture and tradition. With a staff of young people from different religious background wearing light green and violet uniforms to represent diversity, Dennis continually makes me proud as a Tausug.

And one thing that makes me smile is the fact that behind this amazing kahawa sug venture is a woman. True as what everyone here believes: ‘misan biyadiin kusug sin usug, aun pikilan sin babai’. No matter how powerful a man is, there’s always a woman’s thought behind him.

To Grandmother Ubbaisa who started it all, to my mother, and to all mothers out there on this special day, may you continue to be strong for your families and those you love. And may you continue to succeed in whatever venture you’re doing right now. Happy Mothers’ Day!

I love you, peace! Let’s sail together. Layag Sug!

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Tibuuka Na

3/6/2016

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Here's the video of the Tausug song "Tibuuka Na", which we've all been waiting for years.

Please help spread the word by sharing the video to your friends and relatives. :)

"Tibuuka Na" is part of “Langan Atay”, an album made up of Suluk/Tausug songs.

The album represents music from Sabah ethnic and Philippine South tribes. It contains 9 songs sung by Nikki Bacolod (Philippines), Diya and Eima (Philippines), Min Yasmin and Julfekar (Malaysia).

Produced by Julfekar (Julfekar Music Malaysia), the album will be distributed this year in both Malaysia and Philippines. The songs are composed by Julfekar with lyrics by Nelson Dino and Julfekar. Among the songs in the album are the following:

1. Tibuuka Na Nikki.B feat. Min Yasmin
2. Isuk Atay Nikki Bacolod.
3. Masi Malasa Diya.
4. Janji Diya feat. Julfekar.
5. Waktu Limabay Nur-Eima.
6. Nur Sahayaku Nur-Eima feat. Min Yasmin
7. Lunaas Kabuhi Min Yasmin
8. Ampuna Na Julfekar.
9. Sukud Manusia Julfekar.

For more info, contact:

Julfekar Music.
Email : julfekar@yahoo.com.
Contact : +60163443449

TIBUUKA NA
Min Yasmin & Nikki Bacolod
Composed by: Julfekar
Lyrics by: Nelson Dino
Label : Julfekar Music / MillenniumArt.

Kasilasa ku kayimu di’ mabiy
kublit jantung ku lasa ayari

Panumtum atay tara in maghati
labi tumtum ku kayimu makasi

Atay ku himuun yari ra kaw di
halaum pikilan ku ra in lingkat mu

Tuhan tabanga na aku
tibuuka na in lasa in

Tuhan dunguga ba aku
in lasa ku ini kaniya
Kaniya ra.

Halaum sin manis mu
in lasa ku ini kayimu ra...

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Sulug in Sabah e-book

1/19/2016

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Above is the cover of my e-book, Sulug in Sabah, released through e-sentral.com. In case you want to secure a copy, please click this link. You may also message the author in case you want a hard copy. Thank you for the support.

Synopsis

The Suluks have always been somewhat misunderstood as a people. To the outside world whose insights are based mostly on information gathered from occasional coverage in newspapers and other media, they are a barbaric race, prone to committing acts of brutality and senseless aggression.

In Sabah, even though they are legally natives, the Suluks are still seen today as sort of enemies of the society, stereotyped as potential troublemakers. For these reasons, they are regarded as “outsiders” by many Sabahans and Malaysians.

In this book we get to closely examine the truth about the Suluks and how they really are in real day-to-day life. Through the eyes of ordinary Suluks, we get a glimpse of the everyday struggles of a people. We uncover their dreams and aspirations.

We also get to look closely at the roles the Suluks played politically, historically, and economically in the development of Sabah. We also get to understand what roles they play in shaping the future of Sabahan society.

By examining the Suluks more objectively, we can develop a platform for harmonious co-existence among Malaysians, and ensure the active participation of the Suluks in the local communities. I believe this book is rather timely and particularly relevant.

At the moment, Sabah is beset with issues concerning undocumented immigrants, many of them Suluks and of Suluk origin. Through this book we get to see another side of this often neglected and misunderstood ethnic group, looking at them as artisans, politicians, poets, musicians and business people.
We get to familiarise ourselves with their food, religious belief, culture, and traditions. We get to see the kind of social activities that bind them together. The aim is for the readers to acquire a better understanding of the Suluks in order to strengthen the foundations of a multi-ethnic country that Malaysia is.

There are Suluk personalities whose immense contributions in history have yet to be given due recognition. This book sheds some light into their achievements, not with the intent of glorifying them as individuals, but rather to emphasize what Suluks are capable of and their future potential social contribution to Sabah and to Malaysia.

The Suluks’ sense of connection with their past has always been strong. Although spread out geographically around neighbouring islands such as the Philippines, Malaysia and Indonesia, they are connected by the sea.

The Suluks in Sabah have ties to their brethren in the Sulu archipelago, an area now politically administered by the Republic of the Philippines. Despite having different citizenships, they are inevitably one ethnic group.

An Islamic liberation war in the 1970s had a lot of impact on the lives of Suluks in the Philippines. The suffering thereafter led to their influx to Sabah to seek better lives, away from all vestiges of war. Many of these Suluks are now in Malaysia as undocumented immigrants.

There had never been any formal education offered to them in the past. Recently however, the Malaysian government initiated programs that would allow them to seek alternative education and thus a better life prospect for the future.

I sincerely hope this book will encourage more Malaysians to be more objective and understanding. After all, we are one in this vast archipelago; one regardless of beliefs, citizenship, and nationality. Our future is shared, determined by the contributions of every individual in this country — Suluks included.

Finally, I hope this book will serve as a compass, a guide for the future. By examining the history, the culture, way of life and the connections of Suluks in Sabah to the Suluks of the Sulu archipelago, we can surely pave the way for a brighter future that is freer, more progressive and unhampered by political issues that seem to threaten us continually in the present.

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Visiting Malang

1/17/2016

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It was fun listening to Pak Gatot, our tour guide, telling us about the Kota or City of Malang in Indonesia. According to him, Malang is East Java’s second largest city. It has a history dating back to the Singhasari, a Javanese Hindu-Buddhist kingdom that flourished between 1222 and 1292. I smiled to myself, feeling like a student being lectured by his history professor. Informative and accommodating, Pak Gatot has got to be one of the best guides I’ve ever had in this media trip.

Malang is known for its rather cold climate, hence its nickname “Paris of East Java,”. Thirty minutes from the city lies a small mountainous town called Batu, which has impressive natural green scenery. It is situated 700 - 1100 meters above sea level, which makes it the best place for beautiful orchids, rare flowers, and sweet-tasting organic apples.

“Batu’s government has built a thriving agro-tourism industry over the years,” explained Pak Gatot as we were heading to the Kusuma Agrowisata, a hotel that doubles as a resort, park, and convention center. “In fact, Batu is also home to rare fauna including endemic species of birds, spiders, monkeys, and others.”

We reached Kusumu Agrowisata in no time. I glanced around the luxurious place, feeling awed at the beauty of its exterior and interior. The place has everything you’d want for a relaxing vacation—cottages, restaurants, cafes, tennis court, a picnic area, and etc. All amid lush, green scenery that seems to be the central theme everywhere in Batu.

We were lucky to have been able to spend the night there. I read that Kusumu Agrowisata is one of the pioneers of Indonesia’s Agro Tourism industry, having been established as early as the 1990s.

As I wandered around the hotel, I couldn’t help but marvel at the wonderful design work put into action. A blend of nature and modernity, you’d get the comfort of being in an urban hotel plus the peace and serenity of being in the mountains.

After settling in our rooms, we went around touring the orchard area, picking apples, oranges, guavas, dragon fruits, strawberries and other hydroponic vegetables or vegetables that are organic and free from pesticides.

After seeing the fauna in Agrowisata, we were brought to the Wildlife Museum or Museum Satwa. Standing like the Greek Parthenon in front of the Mount Panderman, the Wildlife Museum is a recreational and educational museum that has now become one of the new icons of tourism in East Java.

The Wildlife Museum is part of Jawa Timur Park 2, a large park area that consists of children rides, a zoo, a safari farm, and others. It holds thousands of preserved endangered animals and ancient fossils imported from various countries across the world including the Americas, Africa, Asia, Australia, Europe, the Arctic and Antarctic.

The museum even displays replicas of ancient animals such as the Apatosaurus, Tyrannosaurus-Rex, Stegosaurus, Mammoth, and others. We were assured that the museum strictly follows the objectives of the Ex-Situ Wildlife Conservation, which is never to acquire dead animals by hunting.

Throughout the tour, I was curious about the animals and how they successfully started the museum. How much of an effort it would have taken to gather all the specimens from different locations and bring them to the highlands.

I guess I still have more to explore. I would really love to visit again someday. I really have to, otherwise, I’d miss the opportunity to know more about the animals. The Wildlife Museum was one of the best museums I have visited so far in one the most populated countries, Indonesia.

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About

Nelson Dino. Tau Sug inside and out. Former university lecturer. Peace fighter. Loves writing, taking photos, researching things.

To get in touch, email nsd.neldy@gmail.com.

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